Cultureshock No 2: Vietnam

Did I actually want to write one post per country? Yes. Was there so much going on, did I see and experience so much and meet such great people that one post for three weeks in Vietnam is not enough? Yes! But hey, what would this blog be without a flood of information, names, hard-to-pronounce places and random thoughts?

Hanoi

The flight from Shanghai to Hanoi passed surprisingly quickly, and collecting my rucksack from the baggage carousel was even quicker (an inner dance of joy that nothing was lost!). Did I think that the sun would shine on me as soon as I left the airport? The only thing that shone on me was the maximum number of pushy taxi drivers, all of whom were probably scammers, who continued harassing me even after a very pissed off and aggressive ‘no’. After I had pushed the panic and seonsory overflood aside, I ordered a Grab (Asian Uber) and was relieved when I was finally sitting in the taxi on the way to the hostel. With the quiet came the emotions, of course. The time with Laurie was over and now I was SOLO in Vietnam. The grey skies and absolutely anarchic traffic didn't help much. I knew even before I planned this trip that it wouldn't always be easy. So I was kind of prepared for the fact that when you leave familiar people or places you love, the homesick gets even worse.

Nevertheless, the Hanoi feeling was nothing compared to the first few weeks in London. As I sat in the taxi, I was already chatting to a Canadian from Hostelworld and we arranged to meet for dinner. The hostel wasn't the nicest I'd ever stayed in, but there was a very cool roof terrace where I spent my first hour in Hanoi. Criminally, we went to a pizzeria for dinner, but it was absolutely necessary to eat something without soy sauce. And how could it be otherwise, the company, a beer and a slightly quieter side street calmed me down enormously.

After a semi-good night's sleep, I was already sitting down for breakfast at half past seven (which was a very savoury combo of fried rice, pak choi, watermelon, white toast and jacket potatoes), sipping my first Vietnamese coffee (10/10). The girl one table over looked up and smiled, so without further ado I sat down with her. It was also Katie's first day in Vietnam and together with another Brit (somehow I always attract Brits and Dutchies, coincidence?!) we set off to explore the city. It was much colder than expected, but still better than the 5°C in China. The rules of the road quickly became clear: walk and pray. We strolled through the busy streets, stopped for coffee breaks and chatted about our future travel plans. Katie and I actually had a very similar itinerary!

The next day we went on one of the red tourist buses, which pretty much ticked all the clichés, but as it was drizzling and we didn't feel like walking around much more, it was a very fun day activity. In the evening we went to a small restaurant and paid about 2 euros for some of the best pho I've ever had.

On day 3, I made my way to the war museum and art museum, where the latter in particular was really impressive. And as I had washed my hair for the last time in China, I spontaneously went to one of the numerous spas in the evening. Yes, the head spas deserve their reputation, it was an absolute treat. We continued with Katie and the boys for dinner and drinks (a beer for 70 cents? How can you say no?).

There really is so much to see and do in North Vietnam, I didn't even know which tour to start with. I didn't feel like investing more than 2 minutes of brain energy either, so I sat at reception for 20 minutes while one of the staff put together the perfect route for me.

On my last day in Hanoi, I had to say goodbye to Katie, who was going on a tour to Cat Ba. But as we wanted to do the Ha Giang Loop together, the farewell was short-lived. I strolled through the chaotic alleyways of Hanoi, ate a banh mi (very nice, but still didn't set my soul on fire, 7/10), and ended up in one of the cutest cafés I'd seen in a long time. Only books can have that effect on me, and ‘tranquil and books’ had bookshelves reaching to the ceiling.

I set off in the evening and got on my first night bus. Did I sleep much? No. Did I wake up because I was half stuck to the window pane after the bus drove into a hairpin bend with a lot of momentum? Yes.

Sapa

When I arrived in Sapa (5 a.m.), all I could think about was a shower and a bed. Well, fiddlesticks. The very unmotivated lady at reception told us that we should wait here because the trek didn't start until 8.30am. And so I showered in one of the communal bathrooms and didn't even try to get a good night's sleep. Our tour guide was a small woman from one of the local villages and together with 8 others we set off on the hike. When we arrived at a junction, Di turned round and asked if we wanted to go the easy or hard way. What she didn't say was that the hard trail was a muddy field where the views were stunning but I could barely look up, as all of my focus was on the trail. Charlotte, a British girl I chatted to most of the way, and I couldn't help but laugh at one point as we desperately held on to huge bamboo trunks to stop ourselves sliding down the mountain on our bums.

After a hearty lunch, we continued our journey and marvelled at the endless rice terraces, water buffaloes and chicks. In the fields we saw almost exclusively women, and Di explained to us that each community had its own language and women and men shared the work according to their availability.

We arrived at the homestay for the night in the afternoon and were grateful to warm our cold feet by the campfire. The group was really great and we chatted away about anything we could think of. The food, prepared by the family who owned the house, was absolutely divine and we had our first shot of happy water (which was served in a teapot and tasted like a stronger mix of vodka and tequila). The evening went on and we were surprised only once by a very curious, huge water buffalo that stuck its head around the corner of the house and trotted across the terrace. Until the owners came out with a bamboo whip and chased the visitor away. I slipped blissfully into my silk sleeping bag (which served me well at around 8°C with no windows) and was even tucked in with an extra blanket by Charlotte. Oh, life is good.

The next morning, the mud-sliding continued, but with bright sunshine and good company, it was totally doable. When we arrived back at our starting point, I was really sad to say goodbye to my new friends. Together with Shaam, who I had already met on the bus in Hanoi, we headed towards Ha Giang for a 3-day motorbike tour through the mountains.

Ha Giang Loop

I heard from everyone in Hanoi that the Ha Giang Loop Tour was one of the best things they had ever done. Accordingly, expectations were high, and I can already tell you that they were more than exceeded. As the tour left on Thursday morning and I arrived on Wednesday evening, I treated myself to a private room in the hostel for the night. It's amazing how much you can miss the little things. Listening to music in the shower, blocking the bathroom for more than 10 minutes, watching Netflix without headphones and sleeping in my undies, for example. I started straight away in the morning, was assigned a driver, put on elbow and knee protectors and off I went up the mountain to the base hostel.

And who was sitting at the breakfast table? Katie! You underestimate how much a person you already know a bit and click with is worth when you're travelling alone in a foreign country. Sitting opposite her was Marie, a German girl I had also met at the hostel in Hanoi, but who I hadn't expected to see at the Loop! The gang was complete. Before we set off, I chatted to the Canadians Greg and John, and with that I could already feel the good vibes in the group.

At the first view point I chatted to other girls in the group, Maud and Paula, and once again couldn't believe my luck with great people.

4 hours later and it felt like I had known most of the people for years. After lunch, we headed up the next mountain, and you have to hand it to the EasyRiders, they had no problem with hairpin bends and steep roads.

The afternoon stop included a short hike, and God, my legs were shaking after the Sapa expedition. I chatted to Greg about music festivals and sport, and it was back on the bike. Well, not quite, because when we drove through a pothole (which make up about 80% of the roads here), something rattled on the bike that was supposed to be fixed. And so I was unceremoniously put on Paula's motorbike, which was definitely an experience haha. We reached the football pitch, where the boys were already passing the balls to each other, and joined Maud on the stand. The sun was shining on our faces as it slowly set towards the west. One of those moments in life when everything is simple and perfect.

Back at the homestay, we moved into our room, which already had a very strong school trip vibe. It was indeed very cosy, with mattresses on the floor, partly separated by curtains, and the atmosphere was full of the cheerfulness of the grandiose day. The dinner was again absolutely divine, the spring rolls were in a completely different dimension of flavour to the ones you get in Germany.

The Loop is also known for its exuberant evenings, with plenty of happy water and karaoke. I can definitely confirm that. After about 7 (or was it 10?) Happy Water shots, I was standing at the front with Maud, bawling Umbrella into the microphone. No, I still can't sing, which surprisingly didn't seem to bother anyone.

We fell happily into bed and I tried once again to realise that this was my life, without responsibilities and obligations, filled with wild tours, the best people and boundless freedom.

Day 2 let the sun shine down on us, and I followed Maud and Katie's example and stuck my headphones under my helmet. Best decision ever. The wind in my face, Bon Jovi and The Cranberries in my ears, the sun warm on my skin. Looking to the left, a valley with rice terraces and banana trees, looking to the right, huge mountains that looked like sugar loaves.

Unfortunately, the magic only lasted until we took a very dodgy road down to the river. Dodgy because the road was obviously still under construction. Once we reached the bottom, everyone in the group had horror written all over their faces when the tour guide announced that we would be travelling back down this ‘road’. My bum still has bruises. But the river boat tour was pretty nice!

Day 2 actually ended just like day 1, with good conversation, plenty of happy water and endless karaoke. While Marie and Katie slept soundly at 9pm, the girls and I had a pool duel with the Canadians until our hands were frozen.

No, I absolutely refused to believe that this Saturday would be the last day of the Ha Giang Loop Tour. I didn't want to say goodbye to the people, I didn't want to go my separate ways. What I wanted was to spend time with them, but not to sit on this motorbike anymore. By the last vantage point, the mood was a little more subdued, both because of bum pain and last-day melancholy. The bright spots: Katie, Marie, Tim (also a German living in Berlin), and I would take the night bus to Cat Ba together, and Paula, Maud and I arranged to meet for dinner in Ninh Binh a few days later.

Still, I had to fight the tears when I hugged the last people goodbye.

Yoo, that was a very long blog hahah, and it only covered the first week in Vietnam. But I'll get straight on to the next one!